Yellowstone Bear
During the summer of 2011 I talked my bride and 13 year old
daughter to take a trip with me to the Grand Tetons, Yellowstone and Glacier
National Parks. The primary objective was to experience as much of the parks as
one week would allow. This meant plenty of driving, but I also wanted to at
least get in a few hikes.
We began in the South and worked our way north, beginning at
Jackson Hole, just outside Grand Teton National Park. Wanting to spend most of
the time in Yellowstone and Glacier, we moved through the first National Park
in a hurry. As quickly as we enjoyed the sights of the Grand Tetons, there was
no escaping the constant reminder that bears, and a lot of bears, frequent this
area.
Bear warning sign in Grand Tetons
Moving north and seamlessly driving into Yellowstone, we
were soon reminded once again that bears inhabit the area. This time, I caught
some movement out of the corner of my eye and stopped our rig as soon as
possible. Perceiving the movement was well away from the road, I got out of the
SUV and ran back up the road to find what I saw. Sure enough, well over 100
yards off the road was a bear. From the distance, I couldn’t tell what kind of
bear was meandering through the small meadow – a black bear or a grizzly.
We camped near the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, with signs and rangers
constantly reminding us of bears. On our daytime drives on the figure eight
road system inside the park, we saw more bears – all black bears. On the last
day we were to spend in Yellowstone, I had not yet hiked. Determined to do so,
I woke up early that morning and drove to the Cascade Lake trailhead. From
there, I proceeded to the lake through pine forest, skirting a large meadow
before arriving at the lake, 2.5 miles from the trailhead.
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Hiking in grizzly bear country certainly adds an entire new
element to a hike after you’ve spent your life in the Pacific Northwest woods,
where even a black bear sighting is rare. I found myself “in the zone,” my eyes
never resting, scanning the forest and meadow for big brown movement. It was
then that I thought those bells for sale in the Yellowstone store we visited
would have come in handy. Those bells attach to shoes, so when hiking, they
jingle as you move along the trail, warning bears of a hiker in the area. Those
warnings allow bears, who really don’t want anything to do with people, to move
from the immediate area prior to one’s arrival.
Meadow near Cascade Lake
Prior to our trip, a friend asked me, “Do you know the
difference between black bear poop and grizzly bear poop?
Thinking I would learn something that might be helpful along
the trail, I said, “No.”
“The difference is grizzly bear poop has small bells in it,”
he said.
After returning from my hike, we packed and headed out for
Glacier National Park. Listening to the radio on our drive, a news story
immediately caught our attention. A man hiking with his wife in Yellowstone had
been mauled to death that morning. It was the first fatality in Yellowstone due
to a bear attack in 25 years.
The news was bit chilling, realizing I had been
hiking the Cascade Lake Trail at about the same time as the attack. However,
Yellowstone is nearly 3,500 square miles in size, so I figured the attack
probably occurred quite a distance from where I was hiking. Later we heard the attack happened on the Wapiti Lake Trail, near Canyon
Village, where we were camped and only a few miles from the Cascade Lake Trail.
According to an investigation into the incident, about 90
minutes into their hike, the couple met a solitary hiker who pointed out a
female bear and her two cubs in a meadow about 500 yards off the trail.
Grizzly bear in Yellowstone National Park (Photo credit: Wikipedia) |
After taking photos, the couple continued walking east along
the trail toward Ribbon Lake for about a half-mile. But they decided to turn
back because of large populations of mosquitoes. As they walked back along the
trail, they saw that the bear and her cubs had moved toward the trail and were
now only about 100 yards away from them. As the couple walked away from the
bears, the female began moving toward them. The man told his wife to run.
The couple ran an estimated 173 yards before the bear caught
the man. His wife jumped behind a fallen tree and saw the bear “hit” her
husband. After a few seconds, the bear spotted the woman hiding behind the
fallen tree, walked over and picked her up by her backpack before dropping her.
After the bear left, she tried to stem her husband’s bleeding, but he was
unresponsive and apparently dead when she reached him. The same bear they had
photographed earlier ended up killing the man.
Yellowstone Black Bear
Another nearby hiker who said he heard the bear roar and the
woman yelling for help was able to get through on his cell phone to Yellowstone
Park Dispatch to request help.
The investigative team concluded that running away probably
triggered a response in the bear to chase the couple. The forest service
recommends that when encountering a bear, one should stand still or slowly walk
away. If the bear charges, they suggest to lie motionless face down.
Two grizzly bears in a meadow in the Yellowstone park. |
Because the grizzly sow was found to be protecting its cubs
and did not have any history of causing trouble, it was not euthanized.
Unfortunately, the bear was not done. What investigators Later that summer, DNA
samples linked the same bear to a second mauling, which killed another hiker
within the park. As a result, it was tracked down and killed.
Again, at Glacier National Park, constant reminders of bears were apparent in the form of signs. We had intended to drive through the park on Going-To-The-Sun Road, but heavy winter snows that year blocked the road at its highest elevations. From the information we received, it sounded as if they were planning on keeping the road closed the entire summer.
Again, at Glacier National Park, constant reminders of bears were apparent in the form of signs. We had intended to drive through the park on Going-To-The-Sun Road, but heavy winter snows that year blocked the road at its highest elevations. From the information we received, it sounded as if they were planning on keeping the road closed the entire summer.
Signs for bears weren't the only warnings at Glacier
Fortunately, one of the trails I wanted to hike was
accessible from Going-To-The-Sun Road. Avalanche Lake is only two miles from
the trailhead and offers spectacular views of waterfalls plummeting into the
cirque in which the lake lies. Nearby, is the short Trail of the Cedars, a wood
trail consisting of a wood deck a few feet off the forest floor that meanders
through large cedar trees. Although a nice little jaunt, this trail did not
offer anything more than I have already seen in the forests of Oregon.
Along the trail to Avalanche Lake, I was very aware of my
surroundings, making noises every now and then to inform any bears that I was
in the area. When I arrived at the lake, other folks were already there,
snapping pictures and taking in the spectacular scenery. One couple with a
small child and another women, who I gathered was not part of the family’s
party but had hiked in with them, struck up a conversation about bears. I think
our talk freaked out the lone woman, because she asked me if I would hike back
with their group. Did she think I would be able to stop an attack or did she think
her odds of survival were better the bigger the hiking group. I don’t know.
Avalanche Lake
We sighted no bears at Glacier National Park. We looked for
them on evening drives on back roads, but had no luck.