Table Rock from near Rooster Rock |
Years ago, Bones and Shifty, two friends since childhood, and
I spent the early morning hours during an April day inside my tiny, rickety pickup, bouncing along
washboard stretches of an old logging road, high in the Old Cascades of Oregon.
Bones was wiry, dark haired and freckle faced. About 5'
10" and 145 pounds, his boyish appearance had bamboozled more than one
person into thinking he was a pushover. Opinionated and somewhat abrasive, he
never backed down from the friction these traits sometimes created.
Shifty was long and lanky and fond of martial arts. He had
always aspired to be in the Special Forces but disdained taking orders. He was
a natural born leader who always seemed to remain cool under whatever predicament
we found ourselves in. At one time, Bones had given him the name
"Shifty," and it stuck.
Bones on Table Rock summit ridge
I was just out to have a good time in the woods – or a good
time doing whatever I was doing. Hooking up with Shifty and Bones at that age
proved to be one big adventure. We relished new challenges. Whatever one of us
did, the others had to do better. Competition often led to some chiding, but it
was always good natured.
For weeks we had traveled a seemingly infinite network of
logging roads in this small portion of Oregon's western Cascades, stopping now
and then to explore the area's hemlock coated ridges, echoing canyons, basalt
cliffs and open meadows. Some 40 million years earlier, this portion of the
Cascades began its formation from the accumulation of lava and ash. It is much
older than the parallel yet linked range to the east, which contains the major
volcanoes of Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, the Three Sisters and Mt. McLoughlin.
The upper Molalla River. (Photo credit: Wikipedia) |
While the three of us travelled the mountain logging roads,
it didn't matter which road we followed. Each turn provided a new view. Each
mile flung us further into a land of new adventure, where we had rafted,
climbed, rappelled and swam.
On this day, Bones recognized a road he had driven a few
years earlier while deer hunting. We followed it upward into the April day's
low, gray clouds, misting just enough to warrant an occasional swipe of my
pickup's windshield wipers. To our right, towering second growth fir and
hemlock stood hauntingly along the winding road like guardians of the dark and
mysterious forest beyond. To our left, vast space extended out to the far ridge
and down into the Molalla River Canyon below.
Hiking near base of Table Rock
White patches - snow yet to melt from winter's heavy
snowpack - soon appeared along the roadside, while thick clouds engulfed the
vehicle. Like so many other logging roads we had driven over the past weeks,
this one ended abruptly at a clear cut. I turned the pickup around and began to
retrace our route back down into the Molalla River Canyon. But after a few
hundred yards, Bones blurted, "Stop! I think this is it!"
We climbed from the pickup and stepped into the dark forest.
From there, we followed a tiny creek upward into deepening snow. The hemlock
branches hanging over the creek’s small canyon collected moisture from the
thick fog and, every now and then, released a large drop onto our heads.
Eventually, we reached a large thicket consisting of vine
maple limbs. We stopped for a moment and looked through the shrub-like branches
toward a clearing. There, the dark forest gave way to a mystical blend of snow
covered ground and heavy fog.
Near Table Rock Summit
"This place is different than the rest of these
foothills," Bones said, as we stood mesmerized by the blend of white
shades in front of us.
Through
the fog, I could barely make out something - tall and grey - standing high
above us yet at a considerable distance. Accompanied with a heaping dose of
curiosity, we trudged up the steep snowfield toward the grey mass, with each
step kicking our toes into the snow for traction. Protrusions and depressions
suddenly began to appear through the fog as we moved closer. Black, vertical
lines extended upward along the mass and disappeared into the low clouds above.
Finally, we could travel the snow bank no more, stopped in our tracks by a
collection of columns forming a mammoth rock wall.
It was then that I thought about what Bones had said
earlier. He was right - this was a special place. I had been to the mountains,
but never, until that time when I stood within that surreal setting, had I really
felt in the mountains.
Sliding on one of the area's snow fields
Even climbing Mt. Hood a couple of times a few years earlier could not match what I was now experiencing. Mt. Hood's ascent had been more of an exercise in camaraderie and will; young men trudging up the South face of the peak with no other goal but to make it to the summit.
This experience was much different. Despite the lack of
comparison one could make between the grandeur of Mt. Hood's summit and
appearance of this rock wall, an enthusiasm was generated from this experience
like none other I had encountered in the outdoors. Perhaps it was simply a
matter of finally realizing a greater respect for the outdoors. My knowledge of
the mountains had grown over time, leaving me with a greater appreciation for
them.
Although I would later learn that I was not standing at the
base of Table Rock, but another hunk of basalt below Table Rock, the entire
area seemed special. Even later I learned just how special of a place this is,
when it was designated by the federal government in 1984 as the Table Rock
Wilderness.
That summer, I made several more trips back to this newly
discovered 6,028 acre Mecca, to experience its glory, smell its trees, hear its
sounds and silence and feel its aura so far removed from the city. From its
summit, I basked in its sweeping vista: to the west - the Coast Range, seen
through Willamette Valley haze; while in the East, the high Cascades, from Mt.
Rainier to the Three Sisters looked like white incisors biting into a blueberry
pie sky.
In June, the pink blossoms of the area's rhododendrons
bloomed. A month later, rock pika's peeped from Table Rock's boulder strewn
slopes. In August, the sky appeared bluer than I had ever witnessed. And in
September, small clouds danced about on the swirling winds of Table Rock's
4,881 foot summit, so close I could nearly reach out and touch them.